My name is Johanne Defay, and I am a professional surfer. But you probably already knew that. 😉

I was born in Auvergne, in the same town as my parents, in Le Puy en Velay. Growing up far from the coast, pursuing a career as a pro surfer wasn't easy. However, my parents had dreams of the open sea, so when I was 2 years old, we moved to Reunion Island. It was there that I discovered my passion for water, especially the ocean.  I grew up barefoot and bare buttocks and spent my afternoons after school at the beach developing my physical skills. Despite my love for Barbies and tutus, I had a tomboy spirit. I was everything that I loved – embracing all aspects of who I was and not limiting myself to stereotypes.

Around the age of 7 or 8, my parents introduced me to surfing by enrolling me in lessons at the local surf club in Etang Sale. I haven't stopped surfing since then. Over the years, surfing and the ocean have played different roles in my life.

I started surfing around 8 years old, and by the time I was 10 to 12 years old, I began participating in local and regional competitions. Things became more serious when I got my first sponsor at 12, which allowed me to compete nationally and in Europe. However, it was around the age of 15 that I started feeling the pressure and obligation to perform. In the same year, I became the youngest European champion, and soon after, I entered international competitions and joined the French team.

At first, my goal was to gain experience, so I participated in "all categories" competitions while prioritizing junior tours for the next three years. In 2011, I completed my BAC S (French high school diploma) and could fully dedicate myself to my surfing career to reach the elite level, the World Championship Tour. This tour is only open to the top 17 female surfers in the world. It took me two years to qualify, and 2014 marked my professional debut. The past ten years on the Tour have been a mix of highs and lows, as is the case with any sports career.

In my first year, I earned the title of "Rookie of the Year" (essentially the best young surfer). In my second year, I achieved my first victory in a world cup event by winning the US Open in Huntington Beach. From there, I've won at least one stage per year, including Fiji in 2016, Uluwatu in Bali in 2018, the Surf Ranch in 2021, and G-land in 2022. I've finished in 5th place in the world three times, but my best performance was achieving 3rd place in the world in 2022!

Professional competitive surfing is a private American sport, and if you want a career in it, you're obliged to participate in competitions organized by the World Surf League. Since 2018, surfing has become an Olympic discipline, which brings a whole new dimension to the sport. The Tokyo Olympics were a unique experience due to the situation caused by COVID-19, so I haven't fully experienced the magic of the Olympics yet. Both in terms of results and the overall atmosphere, it was an average experience, and I feel I have unfinished business. I am officially qualified for the Paris 2024 Games, and all I have to do is participate in two ISA world championships (organized by the international surfing federation, representing the amateur side of the sport). I feel honored to be able to participate in the Games in my own country. I truly appreciate how lucky I am to have this experience in France, especially considering that surfing is a relatively new sport. The surfing events will take place in Teahupoo, a spot on the Tahitian coast of Papeete. It's a wave that's as beautiful as it is scary.

At the beginning of 2023, I started the year injured, which allowed me to take a step back and reconnect with myself. I questioned what truly makes me come alive today. Competition and travel have shaped my life over the past fifteen years, and they have been my greatest teachers. In sports, there's no room for deception, and competition confronts you with yourself—your fears, desires, doubts, dreams, disappointments, and hopes. Traveling exposes you to different cultures and landscapes, fostering personal growth and expanding your horizons. High-level sports demand discipline and significant selfishness, but now I feel a deep need to share my passion and experiences with others. This is why I created my BE.21 workshops.

The protection of nature is close to my heart. Despite my incessant travels, I try to put in place small things for the protection of our planet. On my scale, I hope one day to inspire other young people in this direction. I'm far from perfect and it's easy to feel useless in this vast subject of "environmental protection". 

Through various actions carried out with associations such as PURE, Surf Rider Foundation or brands, I have been involved in concrete actions for various issues specific to the places where we travel. I planted drizzle in the dunes of the Landes in France to prevent erosion. I cleaned the exit of the mangrove and the beach of Punta Roca in Mexico to facilitate the laying of turtle eggs. I participated in plastic waste collections with Goodbye Plastic on Indonesian beaches. I planted corals with Coral Gardner in Tahiti. Etc. I hope to continue to lead and share actions to protect our ecosystems which simply allow us to live!

Once again, thank you all for visiting my website and for your support. Together, let's inspire and make a positive impact. Surfing has given me so much, and I want to give back to both the sport and the environment that has shaped me.